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Okunoshima (Rabbit-Island)
大久野島 (うさぎ島)
In three words: Rabbits & Mustard Gas
Recommended for: Rabbit junkies, war history nuts, people with who would describe themselves as both ‘fluffy and dark’
Size: About 1km²
Population: About 30
In Brief:
The fluffy:
Okunoshima is in the Seto Inland Sea in the prefecture of Hiroshima. This island is nicknamed ‘The Rabbit Island’ and has about 30 times the human population in rabbits, with an estimated 900 or so. When you visit you can buy food to feed the rabbits, upon which they then mob you in a ravenous fluffy ball. So far so cute. But where did they come from?
The dark:
‘The Rabbit Island’ is not Okunoshima’s only nickname. It used to be known as ‘The Poison Gas Island’. Okunoshima was home to a chemical weapons facility that started in the 1920’s. The chemical weapons made here were used in the Second Sino-Japanese War and are estimated to be responsible for 80,000 deaths. Rabbits were brought in as test subjects for the weapons created. However after the war a coverup took place. The remaining rabbits were killed and the island was even erased from the map altogether. Ex workers were sworn to secrecy and Okunoshima was out of sight and out of mind.
Much later on it is believed that some school children released their school pets into the wild and that kickstarted the current population. With no cats, no dogs and no predators at all, the rabbits quickly did what they do best and reproduced and thrived.
Getting there:
Okunoshima is accessed by ferry. The ferry service runs between Tadano-Umi Port on the mainland of the Hiroshima Prefecture and Omishima Island (a larger island in the Seto Inland Sea). Here are the timetables and prices:
Please note that yellow marks boats that only run on weekends. And blue marks a service that does not run from November to January.
Accommodation, shops & restaurants:
The Kyukamura Hotel : the only hotel on Okunoshima. The Rabbit Island is mostly visited as a day trip but this hotel allows overnights and access to the rabbits during their most active times; dawn and dusk. Prices are around 11,000 yen per person per night. There is a free shuttle bus from the port to the hotel. From the hotel, bicycles can be rented, meals can be eaten at the Usanchu Cafe, and baths can be had. This is basically your one stop shop and the only place open for business, so if you didn’t come prepared, this is where you should go! Feel free to contact us if you would like help making a booking.
Okunoshima Camping Ground: This campground in the south of the island is a very basic but stunning offering. The beachside lawn camping ground costs 420 yen per person per night plus 1050 yen per tent.
Things to see and do:
Poison Gas Museum: Right next to the hotel is a poison gas museum. This tiny museum has minimal English but its content and purpose justifies the means. This is an example of Japan displaying a darker side of its own history and should be a shining example to the government of the country which is famous for hiding and revising its darker past. In war horrific things happened. Document it.
Seto Onsen - This hot spring is said to have healing qualities. Simple and with more of a pool atmosphere, the water is excellent quality and only 400 yen to use.
The Look Out- In the centre of the island is a look out accessible by a small road. It has great panoramas of the islands of the Seto Inland Sea!
Itineraries:
This island is a day trip or a very laid back overnight. I recommend cycling for a day trip and hiking on an overnight. Check out this website for more detailed itineraries.
And enjoy!
Cruel or Kind?
There are several bloggers and vloggers who have been to the Rabbit Island since it went viral. Many bask in the cuteness of the bunnies. But many have framed it as a cruel place with sick bunnies.
Here is out view: This is not a zoo. These rabbits were here before the tourists were. They are feral animals and therefore not all of them are in good health. Though there may come a time when the local authorities decide to develop this island into more of a managed rabbit sanctuary. They have not done that yet. In broad terms this is an example of an invasive species doing what they often do on small islands. You can come and enjoy it. Or you can go elsewhere. But this island exists and does make an interesting day or two in the Seto Inland Sea.
