ATTENTION:
This site is currently inactive. We moved to the mountains of southern Nagano during the Covid 19 Pandemic. You can now find us at www.reallyruraljapan.com where we offer hiking trips and rural experiences in the Kiso Valley and Ina Valley. We are leaving the site up as an informational resource only and won’t be able to reply to emails.
Aka island
阿嘉島
In three words: JAPAN’S DIVING MECCA
Recommended for: Scuba divers, sea lovers and beach bums who don’t like crowds.
Size: About 4km²
Population: About 200
Boats depart from: Tomari Port, Naha, Okinawa.
Aka island and us: We lived there for several years and we know it very well! One might say too well.
in brief:
Part of the Kerama Shoto National Park, the tiny island of Aka has some of the most crystal clear turquoise oceans in the world. They even named the colour of the sea ‘Kerama Blue’ feeling there was no existing colour to describe it. The island is geared around scuba diving, snorkelling and beach relaxation. CNN named Nishihama beach in the top 50 beaches in the world. Aka is protected by the locals against giant resort tourism and feels quiet, local and quaint even in high season. It is one of the Kerama islands and comes under the jurisdiction of Zamami Village.
getting there:
It is really easy to get to Aka. From Naha City, the capital of Okinawa, there are two boat options. There is the high speed Queen Zamami and the slower, cheaper Ferry Zamami. The boats are named after Zamami village, of which Aka island is a part of. There used to be planes but not anymore. Helicopters are an expensive but fast option option and become heavily discounted when the boats stop running.
The faster boat: the Queen Zamami will cost 5,970 yen for a round trip. It takes either 50 or 70 minutes depending on if it stops at Aka Island first or Zamami Island first. In the high season this boat runs three times a day. In the low season it runs twice a day. High season means Golden Week (early May) and then July, August and September. In these popular times to visit, the boat is usually fully booked. It is highly recommended that you book in advance. Book through us to save yourself the hassle.
The slower Ferry Zamami will cost 4,030 yen for a round trip. It usually takes 90 minutes to Aka island and the boat usually only does the journey once in a day. Generally leaving at 10:00 from Naha and departing at 16:30 from Aka in the high season and 15:30 in the off season. However the schedule is very irregular so check the timetable. Cars, motorcycles and bikes can only ride on the Ferry Zamami.
The online schedule can be found here. Typhoons will create waves that stops the boats from running, as do windy days especially in winter. Be careful as you might get stranded and miss your flight.
There is also an inter-island small boat called the Mitsushima that runs several times a day. This goes between Zamami, Aka and Tokashiki. The timetable can be found here.
getting around:
You can pretty much walk everywhere in the village in less than 10 minutes. You don’t need a bike for that, but you will want a bike to travel to the beach and explore the next door island of Geruma.
The main tourist beach of Nishihama is about 25 minutes walk from the village. It sounds easy, but the summer sun can make it feel like long way and sun stroke sometimes catches the unprepared. For this reason, we recommend that most people rent a bicycle. A few stores offer bicycle rental in the village. Prices are quite similar. Expect to pay 1000-1500 for the day.
Alternatively you could rent a 50cc scooter. This will get you up to the view point at the top of the mountain on Aka, to the most remote beaches and to neighbouring Geruma and Fukaji all in one day. Only one place on Aka Island rents scooters. Ryo rental is near the end of the bridge in Aka. A scooter will cost about 3500 for the day. Be sure to have an international drivers permit or a Japanese drivers license, else you will be refused.
Food and drink:
Most hotels on Aka offer breakfast and dinner with your stay. I recommend you take it. No shops are open for breakfast. And dinner options are very limited. That said there are a few places to eat and drink with some pleasant surprises in there:
Parlour Miyama - This age old institution of Aka Island serves three dishes: curry, taco rice and Okinawa soba. A meal will set you back a mere 500-700 yen or so and portions are very large and pretty tasty too. Open lunch time only from about 11:00 - 14:00 with slightly irregular hours and holidays.
Yonamine Bar - A stylish, popular night time spot. It is a very classic and beautiful Okinawa/Japanese interior with on-the-floor tatami mat seating, while at the same time the owner plays jazz CDs and the atmosphere feels quite slick. The drink menu is simple and the owner makes cocktails according to whatever taste you ask him to give it. The food is simple bar food, not large enough for dinner. Open 18:00 until late.
Yoshidaya - A rare new business in Aka Island opened in 2017. They do drinks and light food in the evenings and simple lunches in the day time. It is outdoor which is nice in the warm Okinawan evenings.
Nishihama Beach - There are two competing shops at any one time in Nishihama Beach and they probably both sell food daily. These shops change hands often so it is difficult to know who will be doing it year in year out. And to tell you the truth, we actually ran one of these shops for three years. The location is great and I am sure that the food will be tasty and good value.
Geruma Gnon - Not actually on Aka Island. This is on Geruma Island, but gets a mention here because the two islands are connected by bridge, and it is a special place. 2 hour course lunches cooked beautifully from fresh local produce with drinks for around 2,200 yen. Reservation only.
When it comes to finding locally sourced seafood, the Keramas can be difficult. The sashimi of warmer seas are not as fatty or as juicy as the sashimi of colder seas. But if you want to give it a try, the local fisheries shop serves sashimi don at lunch times during the high season.
tours and organised activities:
In Aka it is diving, diving and more diving. There are other organised trips too. You could go on a boat snorkelling tour or a kayak/stand-up paddle and snorkelling tour.
Aka has a population of around 200 and around 20 dive shops. Even though there are loads of choices, they do get booked up in the summer months especially during national holidays. The main attraction here is the diversity of life under the water. If you book a dive from the mainland of Okinawa, chances are they are going to come out to these islands anyway. By booking a dive shop on the island, you guarantee the best local knowledge and access to the best spots that non-local dive shops are prohibited from using. Also you get to stay on the island in the tranquility of outer island life and gaze at the stars.
Diving is usually priced around 6000 for one dive not including gear rental. But if you choose to dive more than once in a day, the subsequent dives will become cheaper and cheaper. We can get you booked in and ready to go with the best guides! Just get in touch to use our booking services.
Kayak and stand-up paddle boarding tours are also run as well as snorkelling boat-tours on request. Just let us know what you want to get up to and we can take care of the rest!
accommodation
There is lots of accommodation on Aka Island and almost none of it is locatable on the internet, especially in English. There are however two English friendly places to stay.
Kawai Diving- A beach front accommodation offering bed and board, scuba and snorkelling. They are a fun loving family and the oldest diving shop in Aka Island.
Hanamuro - They currently have two locations and are building a third. They are spotless, modern, outdoorsy and put a lot effort into meals. These are also the guys running kayak and stand-up paddle tours.
There are also many other places to stay that are not so adept at English but would happily accommodate you and treat you well. Too many to list in fact, but we know them all well. The prices tend to be from around 7,000 yen per person for 2 meals and a bed/futon.
Contact us to make use of our booking services.
The sights:
Nishihama Beach - This is the post card beach. It was named one of the top 50 beaches in the world by CNN. Beautiful white sand and outrageously crystal blue seas. The coral and the vibrant life under the water make it stunning above and below the water line. Lifesavers keep swimmers safe and food, drink and beach goods can be bought and rented from shops just up from the beach.
Aka Beach - This beach is where the turtles live. Head out from the point at which the concrete sea defences meet the sea. With any luck you will find a few turtles poking about. Don’t touch or bother them please. This spot also has a lot of coral and fish. But with no life savers please do be careful!
Hizushi Beach - This is the sunset beach. Bring a drink and soak in the peace. There is also great snorkelling here. But it is hard to find and far from the beach. Avoid it unless you can get some local info. Again no lifesavers.
Kushibaru beach - This beach is a long way out! Only head here if you have rented a scooter or got a lift. At low tide there is a pool that is cut off from the current to the left of the entrance to the beach. Here you can snorkel and see giant coral towers and all kinds of things! Again no lifesavers. And be careful of the rising tide entering the pool causing strong currents.
Nakadake viewpoint - Up at the highest point on Aka is a viewpoint. Great panoramic views of neighbouring, inhabited and uninhabited islands can be seen from miles away on a clear day.
The Visitors Centre - Visible from the boat when you get in, the visitors centre is a great way to start your holiday in Aka or to take some time out of the sun. It is full of changing displays and educational material about the sea life.
a 2-3 day itinerary
Day 1 - Go scuba diving for the day. Have lunch in Parlor Miyama. At night if the sky is clear, for heaven’s sake look up! Shooting stars every clear-skied day of the week. And the Milky Way!
Day 2 - Rent yourself a bicycle for the day. Head to Nishihama beach, go snorkeling and relax on the beach. Out at the end of the buoyed area is where the reef drops and the sea life is a frenzy of colour. Get some lunch in the beach stores and cycle to Aka Beach. Go snorkeling and you will soon find turtles with any luck! Then off to the sunset beach of Hizushi Beach. Take your time. The colours can be mesmerising.
Day 3 - Rent a bicycle and go to visit neighboring Geruma Island. Book lunch at GerumaGnon Restaurant. Eat yourself happy with a French course style lunch at a ridiculously low price.
sealife:
The sea life is the star of the show. Too many things to see that I couldn’t possibly list them. But to name a few, there are reef sharks, sea turtles, manta rays, Spanish dancers, sea horses, cuttle fish and such unusual colourful sea slugs you won’t believe your eyes
In the winter time humpback whales arrive. Boats take whale watching trips from Aka and Zamami.
wildlife:
Kerama deer live on Geruma and Aka island. They are a protected species of special scientific interest. Having evolved from Japanese deer, they have become smaller and darker to cope better with the sunshine. They are a little skittish and famous for the adorable heart shaped white patch of fur on their rumps. Several plants are also native to the Kerama islands too. For example the Kerama Rhododendron is bright pink in colour.
The highly venomous habu snake is not present on Aka, Geruma or Zamami.
notable history
The Kerama islands were the first point in Okinawa that the American’s attacked. On March 26th 1945, Aka was the first island to be boarded. Fighting broke out between Japanese infantry based there as well as Korean war time laborers. Aka managed to avert tragic mass suicide, however neighboring Geruma, Zamami and Tokashiki could not. It was the sight of a great deal of fighting over a few days in which several Japanese, Korean and Americans were killed.