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Naoshima
直島
In three words: Art Brings Life
Recommended for: Art lovers, Nature lovers, Lovers in general.
Size: About 14km²
Population: About 3,000
Boats depart from: Uno Port (Okayama Prefecture), Takamatsu Port (Kagawa Prefecture), Teshima and Inujima (neighbouring islands)
In Brief:
In the Seto Inland Sea, in the prefecture of Kagawa, Naoshima is an example of how an idea (in this case art) took hold and transformed a poor, industrial, ageing island into a popular, vibrant and youthful place dubbed the ‘mecca of art’ by many. This small island is now covered in some of the world’s most breathtaking art galleries, inspiring accommodation and tasteful eateries. What a change! Surely one of the most unique and boutique experiences you can have in Japan is a whole island dedicated to art. Architect Ando Tadao is the main brain behind the transformation with his concrete-embracing, indoor-outdoor style.
Getting there:
There are tons of boats daily to Naoshima running from early morning with one service running as late as after midnight. There are two ports in Naoshima that receive passenger boats, they are Honmura Port and Miyanoura Port. Boats come to and from three directions. (1) Uno Port in Okayama Prefecture. (2) Takamatsu Port in Kagawa Prefecture. (3) Teshima and Inujima (other islands in the Seto Inland Sea.
Most of the boats land at Miyanoura with 33 boat landings everyday. Honmura on the other hand only receives 5 services per day. Click here to see the official boats website.
Uno Port
Certainly the most convenient place to access Naoshima is Uno Port in Okayama. 25 boats run daily from Uno to Naoshima and back. Uno train station is right next to the port and about a 50 minute train ride from Okayama Station, accessible on the Shinkansen (bullet train) from Tokyo station and more. We recommend using the hyperdia website or app to work out the trains.
Takamatsu Port
From Takamatsu Port in Kagawa Prefecture on the island of Shikoku, there are 10 daily boats to and from Naoshima. The nearest train stations are Takamatsu Station and Takamatsu Chikko. Takamatsu has it’s own airport with flights from Tokyo and Okinawa. Check the airports website for timetables.
inter-island boat
There are 3 daily services that island hop between Naoshima, Teshima and Inujima. Island hopping is popular as Teshima is also an amazing art paradise.
Getting Around:
Naoshima is a relatively small island. It is usually recommended to rent bicycles. Bicycles are available to rent at the port towns of Miyanoura and Honmura. They generally cost 500 yen per day for a simple bicycles or 1500 yen per day for an electric power supported bicycle. There are a few hills to bare in mind before you make your choice. Walking is possible but very time consuming and tough in hot summers!
There are also inexpensive buses running semi frequently from village to village and some galleries provide their own shuttle bus services. You could also rent a car or take a taxi. Details to be found on this website.
Galleries & Art:
Yellow Pumpkin
The yellow pumpkin on the end of a pier has become somewhat of a symbol or even mascot of Naoshima. Yayoi Kusama’s pumpkin sometimes draws crowds of people waiting for a photo with the bizarre mascot of Naoshima.
Art House Project
6 or so old and traditional homes in Naoshima have been taken over by different artists creating a way of viewing the old and decayed houses in an artistic and contemporary light. 1030 yen for entry to all sites. Under 15s are free.
Chichu Art Museum
Ando Tadao’s museum is the setting of some of Monet’s waterlily paintings as well as other famous pieces. But more than that, this building’s use concrete and natural light has become an absolute masterpiece of art-itecture. Tickets costs 2060 yen per adult and free for under 15s.
Naoshima Pavillion
This art installation right near the port at Miyanoura is a popular place to take photos.
Benesse House Museum
This museum/restaurant/hotel is a piece of stunning architecture. You may have a to book long in advance to book a room to stay here. Reservations online start 180 days in advance.
Lee Ufan Museum
This outdoorsy museum is a collaboration of Lee Ufan and Ando Tadao. They complement each other stunningly well. Tickets cost 1030 yen and is free for under 15s.
I (Heart) Yu
This bath house is has also been given a colourful, vibrant zing with artist Shinro Ohtake this time designing a place where tradition Japanese onsen meets ethnic speed art. 650 yen to go in and bathe. The name by the way is a word play. The Japanese word for hot water is ‘Yu’.
Accommodation:
With tons of places to choose from here are a few you could try.
Splurge:
Benesse House (Various styles of accommodation) - There are a number of different price ranges. The most desirable accommodation on Naoshima must be Benesse House. Should be booked well in advance. The website is fragile and difficult to use. Better to be booked over the phone. Contact us for support.
Sane Mane - This glamping site for the luxurious is right on the beach and offers a futuristic style tent/space pod in the mid/high range from about 32000 yen for two people including breakfast.
Mid range:
Mrs. Maroulla’s House - Colourful guesthouse in Miyanoura in the mid range with very satisfied customers staying for around 16000 yen for 2 per people per night.
Budget:
Dormitory In Kowloon - This budget backpackers style dormitory offers a room and a bed from 3600 yen per person per night.
Food & Drink:
Shioya Diner - In Miyanoura this American burger and hotdog joint might just do the trick for a traveler craving familiar tastes.
Mikazuki shoten - This simple and elegant coffee stand offers a stunning flat white, a relaxing atmosphere and a helpful owner keen to give guests the local tips.
Apron Cafe - In Honmura village this healthy place offers lunch sets for 1500 yen. Presented elegantly.
Konichiwa Cafe - This shop is the first thing you might see getting off of the boat at Honmura Port. Great wholesome food and a laid back atmosphere.
Recommended Itinerary:
Credit where credit is due, the Benesse website has some excellently detailed itineraries both for day trips and overnights. One thing I would say is that I recommend renting bicycles more than using the museums buses. It just gives you that edge of freedom that you need to enjoy yourself.
