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Geruma island
慶留間島
In a few words: A Time Machine to Old Okinawa Life
Recommended for: People needing to escape the noise of city life.
Size: About 1km²
Population: About 50
Boats depart from: Tomari Port, Naha, Okinawa.
Geruma Island and us: We lived and worked there for quite a few years. I consider Geruma to be my spiritual home in Japan.
In Brief:
Part of the Kerama-Shoto National Park and under the jurisdiction of Zamami Village, Geruma Island is the quietest and the smallest of inhabited islands of Kerama. It is simple, un-touristic and feels like a time slip to a simpler age. It may lack in convenience, but it definitely appeals to someone wanting peace and quiet. It is connected by bridge to the slightly more touristic and convenient Aka Island. So you are never truly that remote, though you will feel like it.
getting there:
Getting to Geruma is simple. From Naha City, the capital of Okinawa, you take the boat to Aka Island. Then, if you are staying in Geruma, the guys at your hotel will pick you up from there, so long as you have booked. They aren’t on the internet, but contact us and we can book you in. There are two boat options taking you to Aka: the high speed Queen Zamami and the slower, cheaper Ferry Zamami.
The faster boat: the Queen Zamami will cost 5,970 yen for a round trip. It takes either 50 or 70 minutes depending on if it stops at Aka Island first or Zamami Island first. In the high season this boat runs three times a day. In the low season it runs twice a day. High season means Golden Week (early May) and then July, August and September. In these popular times to visit, the boat is usually fully booked. It is highly recommended that you book in advance. Book through us to save yourself the hassle.
The slower boat the Ferry Zamami will cost 4,030 yen for a round trip. It usually takes 90 minutes to Aka island and the boat usually only does the journey once in a day. Generally leaving at 10:00 from Naha and departing at 16:30 from Aka in the high season and 15:30 in the off season. However the schedule is very irregular so check the timetable. Cars, motorcycles and bikes can only ride on the Ferry Zamami.
The online schedule can be found here. Typhoons will create waves that stops the boats from running, as do windy days especially in winter. Be careful as you might get stranded and miss your flight.
There is also an inter-island small boat called the Mitsushima that runs several times a day. This goes between Zamami, Aka and Tokashiki. The timetable can be found here.
getting around:
The village of Geruma is tiny! You can walk around it under 5 minutes. Sandy narrow paths with walls made of coral make up the interior of the village. These paths and walls make you feel like you have gone back in time to the old Ryukyu Kingdom. Look for bullet holes in the walls as a reminder of the horror of the Pacific War. For those who want to stay local a bike isn’t necessary. There is some nice swimming and snorkelling to be done on beaches in and around the village, although the beaches are not manned with lifesavers, so do stay safe.
For anyone staying in Geruma there is only hotel on Geruma Island, Pension Geruma. They may rent bicycles or you could rent in Aka when you arrive. It takes 20 minutes to get to Aka and an extra 10 minutes to get to the popular Nishihama beach.
food and drink:
On an island with no local shop you wouldn’t expect it to have restaurant either … but it does. And it is a really, really good one! Geruma Gnon is a mix of Italian, French and Okinawan cooking. I recommend the set menu. Several courses made from locally grown veg and locally caught seafood is served with two drinks and dessert along the way. It is extremely cheap for the quality and detail you are getting. Lunch is 2,200 yen, and dinner a little bit more than that.
Warning: This restaurant has to be reserved in advance. Lunch is the most popular time to eat here, but dinners are also possible for groups that book ahead of time. They are difficult to find on the internet or get in touch with, so contact us and we can help you there.
Decent and hearty breakfasts and dinners are provided by the one hotel on the island, which is useful because there is really nothing much else to eat or drink there.
tours and organised activities:
Geruma’s only hotel, Pension Geruma, offers diving trips in the local seas, which are always stunning! Matto, the owners son, is likely to be the one showing you the sights. He was born and raised on this island and not many know Geruma’s secrets better than he.
No other tour operators run on this island. This is an island to take time for yourself in. Snorkelling, cycling, strolling and star gazing are the best ways to spend your time here.
accommodation:
The only place that you can stay on the island is called Pension Geruma. It is a family run place owned by the Omura’s. The English levels are not high, but they have enough to get the job done and a good sense of humour too.
the sights:
Takara Residence - This is a small exhibit of a very old Okinawan house, which was owned by a merchant of the Ryukyu Kingdom. Of particular interest is outhouse toilet/pigsty, the old sewage systems of these houses. There is usually one staff who asks Japanese customers for a 300 yen donation, which they may be too shy to ask for in English.
Maehama Beach - The beach at the front of the village is not a tourist sun bathing beach. It is a beautiful spot, but don’t expect parasols and cocktails. If you go snorkelling you can see lots of interesting sea-life. But be warned, there are no lifesavers. To be safe I recommend you bring something buoyant or stay shallow.
Fukaji Island’s View Point - If you cross the bridge from Geruma to the uninhabited Fukaji Island, you will find a barely used airport and a viewing point. Wonderful views can be found here. The gate to the airport closes at around 6pm usually.
The Port - The best place to look at the stars at night. If you want to bring a drink, there is a vending machine with alcoholic and soft drinks at Pension Geruma.
a 2-3 day itinerary:
Day 1 - Arrive in the morning and after you have checked in, go for lunch in Geruma Gnon. The wonderful lunch course will keep you occupied for at least two hours. Swim, walk or cycle off your lunch and be sure to check out the quaint interior of the village. Take a visit to Takara residence too. Eat dinner in the hotel and go to the port to watch the sunset. Bring a drink and some music and wait for it to get dark for some star gazing.
Day 2 - Go for a day scuba diving. You will never have a dull day diving in Kerama.
Day 3 - Rent a bike and travel to Aka Island. Head to Nishihama Beach and check out the quiet/occasionally ruckus night life.
SEALIFE:
The sea life is the star of the show. Too many things to see that I couldn’t possibly list them. But to name a few, there are reef sharks, sea turtles, manta rays, Spanish dancers, sea horses, cuttle fish and such unusual colourful sea slugs you won’t believe your eyes.
WILDLIFE:
Kerama deer live on Geruma and Aka island. They are a protected species of special scientific interest. Having evolved from Japanese deer, they have become smaller and darker to cope better with the sunshine. They are a little skittish and famous for the adorable heart shaped white patch of fur on their rumps. Several plants are also native to the Kerama islands too. For example the Kerama Rhododendron is bright pink in colour.
The highly venomous habu snake is not present on Aka, Geruma or Zamami.
notable history:
The Kerama islands were the first point in Okinawa that the American’s boarded. Geruma was only the second island to be boarded of all. The Japanese had fed the locals with propaganda and lies. They were told that if captured by the Americans, they would only face torture and rape. Consequently, the terrified families of locals proceeded to kill themselves and each other in mercy. In the aftermath American troops administered first aid and gave food and cigarettes to the non-combatant islanders. Let’s hope that never again will anyone will anyone have to know the way that the islanders of Geruma felt that day.
If you go to Takara Residence you might meet Takejiro-san. His accounts of it are harrowing. He does not speak English unfortunately. Neither does he speak very much Japanese. He mainly uses the local language. And sometimes he sings it too with his sanshin. Consider yourself very lucky if you get to experience this legend’s music.