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Kuroshima

黒島

In three words: Cows. Shouchuu. Mini-Yakushima.

Recommended for: Shochu drinkers. Hikers. People wanting no other tourists at all.

Size: About 15km²

Population: About 170

Accessed by boat from: Kagoshima

In Brief:

Part of the village of Mishima, also featuring Takeshima and Iojima, Kuroshima is the most remote and the oldest of the three islands. It is a volcanic island often named mini- Yakushima. This refers to its forests, waterfalls, rainfall and shape.

There are two villages, Ozato in the east, and Katadomari in the west. In an effort to rejuvenate the island, a new shochu distillery has been built there open in 2019. This is extremely rare. News shouchuu distilleries are impossible to license and start in Japan but this one escaped the tight rules in order to help the island create industry, jobs and a future. The highest mountain of Mount Yagura is quite small at 622 meters and can be hiked. Kuroshima is an ideal island hopping destination when combined with Iojima and Takeshima.

Too touristy?:

Japanese or foreign, I am 99% sure that you will be the only tourist here if you visit. This guarantees total peace and tranquility. On the downside there are no restaurants or shops on the island so you will be totally served by your accommodation for your three meals with a recommended bento box for lunch optional. 

Getting there:

There is one boat going to all three of the Mishima Village islands. It is called the ‘M-Line’. It makes its way from Kagoshima at 9:30. It arrives in Takeshima at 12:30, Iojima at 13:25, Ozato (Kuroshima) at 14:50 and Katadomari (Kuroshima) at 15:35. Then, it either turns around and goes back the same day, or stays overnight in Kuroshima and returns the next day, arriving in Kagoshima at either 20:00 or 14:05 accordingly.

The schedule is really rather irregular and difficult to make sense of but it works out something like this:

• Mondays - No boats

• Tuesdays and Fridays - Day trip (returns to Kagoshima at 20:00)

• Wednesdays and Saturdays - Outbound trip from Kagoshima

• Thursdays and Sunday - Return trip (arriving in Kagoshima at 14:05)

There are some serious irregularities to this so check the schedule in Japanese here. Or contact us to make use of our booking service.

Getting around:

Minshuku’s (hotels) pick up and drop off from the port. There are power assisted bicycles available to rent, but it is recommended to book them in advance to make sure that they are charged and ready. People are friendly and they may help you to get around but this is in a totally unofficial capacity. Walking long distances is not recommended on hot days but it is not impossible. There are badly maintained hiking paths to the peaks of the mountains which locals will help you to find.

The sights:

1. The Mishima Shouchuu Distillery - Opened in 2019, this distillery is Japan’s newest and probably will remain the newest for a long time. New shouchuu distilleries are almost impossible to licence and this one escaped the rules by not being a private enterprise. This is government run and government owned. In a scheme to bring jobs, industry and a future to the shrinking population of Kuroshima, they built this distillery. Made with only local sweet potatoes and mountain water, this is an achievement of hard work and government investment. At the time of writing, I just bought the 1823rd bottle. And the only place you can buy it is on Kuroshima island. If you book and ask for a tour, a government worker will pick you up and show you around the facility and let you taste the stuff. Recommended for enthusiasts. Contact us for help booking your tour.

2. The coastline - From the ports of the villages, dramatic cliffs dropping 50 meters down with small waterfalls everywhere make a pretty impressive sight and a great place for photos with zoom lenses. The water is has high visibility and is very deep. Jumping in and snorkelling is possible, as is spear fishing, but without lifesavers or guides you will be responsible for your own safety.

3. Shiotebana white cliffs - Stunning and unusual white cliffs, created by salt erosion on soft volcanic pumice rock. You can walk down a beautiful path to the sea which is used as a fishing point.

4. The mountains - Mount Yagura is 622m tall and there are hiking paths leading to the top. At the shortest point from the road it can be walked in 30-40 minutes. But from the towns it is 2-3 hours up and a similar time back down. The paths are not frequently used and badly maintained but that won’t put off someone determined enough.

5. Peace Park (Heiwa Kouen) - A park dedicated to an event that happened on Kuroshima during the Pacific War. Retreating Japanese soldiers crash landed in a sinking boat off of Kuroshima. Most died but the islanders saved several of the soldiers lives.

Accommodation:

There are only a few places to stay and they all generally offer a nights accommodation and two/three meals for 7000 yen or so.

• Ichigogawa (一五川民宿) - This friendly guesthouse in Katadomari is clean, welcoming and the owner speaks some English.

• Mishuku Sara (民宿さら) - A newly opened place to stay in Katadomari.

• Sakumi - The one and only accommodation in Ozato village offering a similar affair.

These are all very local places usually catering to people here for work. Bookings are only over the phone in Japanese. Contact us for help in booking your trip to where no one else has been!

One night itinerary:

The boats get in late to Kuroshima at 14:50 or 15:35. Book a tour of the shouchuu factory and they will pick you up, take you there, show you the factory and let you taste. Be warned: it is considered good manners to buy a bottle if you take the tour. A bottle costs 3,000 yen for a really good, extremely rare bottle of local liquor. After that you will have time for a little look around the village before dinner, sunset and bed. The next morning doesn’t offer enough time to do much so you might consider two nights to make more time.

Two night itinerary:

Go ahead and do day one as is above. On day two rent a bicycle and look around the island. Bring hiking boots and climb the mountain top. Cool off in the sea with a swim. This island is very un-touristy. So you are on your own.